Diet

Just like people, the dietary needs of cavies vary depending on their stage of life. There are many theories and philosophies on what is best. Add this to the selection of pre-mix guinea pig feed varieties available at shops, markets and produce sheds and the decision can soon become confusing and overwhelming. 

Every owner makes their own, hopefully well-informed decisions, about the right diet for their piggies. I have no intention on commenting on the choices of others. The following information is simply based on the personal decisions that I have made for my stud and the reasons why. 

THE BASICS

The bulk of my cavies diet is actually very basic, consisting of abundant fresh grass and water. The grass types vary depending on the season but it is always fresh, hand cut and free from any chemical contaminants.

WATER

I use water bottles in all of my cages to avoid the spillage, dirtying of water and potential drowning or soaking of cavies that can occur with the use of bowls. I use rain-water from our tanks and I don't add supplements that could alter the taste of the water and discourage my cavies from drinking. 

I rinse and refill my bottles every couple of days in winter and daily in summer, regardless of how much or little water remains in them. My outdoor hutches have shade-cloth flaps that cover them to reduce sunlight that heats the bottles and can cause algae or other growths. 

PELLETS

My preference is a mixture of Mitavite Formula 3 Racing, Barastoc Rabbit & Guinea Pig Pellet and Mitavite Munga.

Formula 3 is a horse racing mix that contains maize, barley, faba beans, sunflower seeds, lupins, vegetable protein meals, molasses, vegetable oils including omega 3 and omega 9, salts and added vitamins and minerals, including vitamins E and C as well as chromium yeast cultures and natural enzymes.

The Barastoc mix has a palatable and nutritious blend of cereal grains and fresh lucerne. It contains mineral and vitamin supplements to provide a balanced diet. Including Vitamin C, which is vital as guinea pigs cannot produce their own or store it within their bodies, Adimix to aid digestive health and Yucca Schidigera extract, a natural odour absorbing ingredient to reduce the ammonia smell from pet housing.

Munga is also an equine product, with a high protein, concentrated muesli that has ingredients including lupins, faba beans, lucerne meal, sunflower seeds, vegetable oil and molasses. These contain amino acids, vitamins, minerals and electrolytes.

 I also add food grade diatomaceous earth to the feed in the storage bins to prevent insects infesting the feed and to help prevent internal parasites in my cavies. 

A lot of other breeders also use Hygain Grotorque and rate it highly. To date, I haven't personally used it however you might like to try it. 

CHAFF
I am currently using oaten chaff and wheaten chaff and my cavies seem to love it. I am yet to try barley chaff as the local produce sheds don't seem to stock it. 

I only use lucerne chaff for babies and pregnant sows as several breeders have reported a connection between the high levels of calcium in lucerne and stones in the urinary tract of their cavies.

PARSLEY
This herb is very high in vitamin C and a firm favorite within my stud. Again, the majority of it is given to any pregnant sows first and then to young cavy pups. If I have enough, then everyone else gets some too. I have both the curly and italian flat leaf varieties. 

VEGETABLES AND FRUIT
My cavies get fresh fruit and or vegetables on a daily basis. I keep a 'scrap bucket' for leftovers or cutoffs when preparing meals for my family and I also buy extra of certain veges or fruit when they are on special or in season. I also grow some varieties in the garden. I refer to the following 'Safe List' and if in doubt I google. If I still cant work out if a food is safe for my cavies then I don't give it to them. Trial and error is not advisable. 

It is also worth understanding the nutritional value of the following foods. Just because your piggies can eat something doesn't necessarily mean that large amounts of it is good for them. Lettuce for example can cause diarrhea and bloating. I always feed in moderation and if the food is spoiled (mouldy or rotten) then I throw it in the rubbish bin instead.

Safe List

Apples (seeds removed)

Asparagus

Bananas (skins and fruit and leaves from the trees)
Beetroot (not the leaves)

Berries (strawberries, blue berries, mulberries etc)  
Broccoli

Brussel Sprouts
Cabbage
Capsicum

Carrots (both roots and tops)

Cauliflower
Celery

Cherries (not seeds)

Choko
Clover

Corn (skins, silk and cob)

Cucumbers

Dried Apricots

Figs 

Fresh Herbs (parsley, basil, oregano, mint, coriander, dock, etc)

Grapes

Green Beans, Snow Peas, Sugar-Snap Peas (Not chickpea, borlotti beans etc. or pulses/legumes)

Kiwifruit

Leafy Greens (cos lettuce, spinach, silverbeet, rocket etc)

Mango  

Orange 
Paw Paw
Parsnip
Pear
Pineapple

Pumpkin (skins and flesh - not seeds and gooey stuff) 
Sweet Potato (NOT regular potato)

Tomatos

Watermelon and Honeydew Melon
Zucchini

HAY 
Although cavies find hay delicious, they also use it to grind down their teeth and prevent them from becoming overgrown. The stalks can cause injury though, so it is best to place it in hay racks inside the hutch. Any variety of local grass hay is fine.The most economical way to purchase it is by the bale from a local produce shed. It should be stored somewhere dry and preferably dark or at the least, covered with a tarp or blanket. This ensures it stays fresh and prevents mould which is toxic to cavies.

TREATS

Occasionally I buy non-toxic wooden or sea-grass chew toys or certain small animal pet treats for my cavies. They also enjoy quick-cooking or 2 minute oats. Aside from that their diet is varied and delicious enough that they don't really need 'treats' as such.