Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Diet




Just like people, the dietary needs of cavies vary depending on their stage of life. There are many theories and philosophies on what is best. Add this to the selection of pre-mix guinea pig feed varieties available at shops, markets and produce sheds and the decision can soon become confusing and overwhelming. 


Every owner makes their own, hopefully well-informed decisions, about the right diet for their piggies. I have no intention on commenting on the choices of others. The following information is simply based on the personal decisions that I have made for my stud and the reasons why. 

THE BASICS
The bulk of my cavies diet is actually very basic, consisting of abundant fresh grass and water. The grass types vary depending on the season but it is always fresh, hand cut and free from any chemical contaminants.

WATER
I use water bottles in all of my cages to avoid the spillage, dirtying of water and potential drowning or soaking of cavies that can occur with the use of bowls. I use rain-water from our tanks and I don't add supplements that could alter the taste of the water and discourage my cavies from drinking. 

I rinse and refill my bottles every couple of days in winter and daily in summer, regardless of how much or little water remains in them. My outdoor hutches have shade-cloth flaps that cover them to reduce sunlight that heats the bottles and can cause algae or other growths. 

PELLETS
My preference is a 50/50 mixture of "Mitavite Formula 3 Racing" and "Barastoc Rabbit & Guinea Pig Pellet."

Formula 3 is a horse racing mix that contains maize, barley, faba beans, sunflower seeds, lupins, vegetable protein meals, molasses, vegetable oils including omega 3 and omega 9, salts and added vitamins and minerals, including vitamins E and C as well as chromium yeast cultures and natural enzymes.


The Barastoc mix has a palatable and nutritious blend of cereal grains and fresh lucerne. It contains mineral and vitamin supplements to provide a balanced diet. Including Vitamin C, which is vital as guinea pigs cannot produce their own or store it within their bodies, Adimix to aid digestive health and Yucca Schidigera extract, a natural odour absorbing ingredient to reduce the ammonia smell from pet housing.

 I also add food grade diatomaceous earth to the feed in the storage bins to prevent insects infesting the feed and to help prevent internal parasites in my cavies. 

CHAFF
I am currently using oaten chaff and my cavies seem to love it. I am yet to try barley chaff as the local produce sheds don't seem to stock it. 

I only use lucerne chaff for babies and pregnant sows as several breeders have reported a connection between the high levels of calcium in lucerne and kidney stones or urinary tract infections in their piggies. These high levels of calcium are most beneficial for babies and pregnant sows and as I haven't had any adverse health issues in my stud to date, I continue to use it for them. 

PARSLEY
This herb is very high in vitamin C and a firm favorite within my stud. Again, the majority of it is given to any pregnant sows first and then to young cavy pups. If I have enough, then everyone else gets some too. I have both the curly and italian flat leaf varieties and plans to grow bigger amounts of both.

VEGETABLES AND FRUIT
My cavies get fresh fruit and or vegetables on a daily basis. I keep a 'scrap bucket' for leftovers or cutoffs when preparing meals for my family and I also buy extra of certain veges or fruit when they are on special or in season. I also grow some varieties in the garden. I refer to the following 'Safe List' and if in doubt I google. If I still cant work out if a food is safe for my cavies then I don't give it to them. Trial and error is not advisable. 


It is also worth understanding the nutritional value of the following foods. Just because your piggies can eat something doesn't necessarily mean that large amounts of it is good for them. Lettuce for example can cause diarrhea and bloating. I always feed in moderation and if the food is spoiled (mouldy or rotten) then I throw it in the rubbish bin instead.

Safe List

Apples (seeds removed)
Asparagus
Bananas (skins and fruit and leaves from the trees)
Beetroot (not the leaves)
Berries (strawberries, blue berries, mulberries etc) 
Broccoli 
Brussel Sprouts
Cabbage
Capsicum
Carrots (both roots and tops)
Cauliflower
Celery 
Cherries (not seeds)
Choko 
Clover 
Corn (skins, silk and cob)
Cucumbers
Dried Apricots
Figs 
Fresh herbs (parsley, basil, oregano, mint, coriander, dock, etc)
Grapes
Green beans, snow peas, sugarsnap peas (NOT chickpea, borlotti beans etc. No pulses/legumes)
Kiwifruit
Leafy greens like cos lettuce, spinach, silverbeet, rocket etc
Mango  
Orange
Paw Paw 
Parsnip
Pear
Pineapple 
Pumpkin (skins and flesh - not seeds and gooey stuff) 
Sweet potato (NOT regular potato)
Tomatoes
Watermelon and honeydew melon
Zucchini




 

TREATS
Occasionally I buy non-toxic wooden or sea-grass chew toys or certain small animal pet treats for my cavies. They also enjoy quick-cooking or 2 minute oats. Aside from that their diet is varied and delicious enough that they don't really need 'treats' as such.


HAY
I dont buy or use hay. I have seen too many scary pictures of the injuries caused to guinea pigs by rogue stalks of hay. I am satisfied that their nutritional and dental needs are being met without it.  

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